Coming from Langogne along the Allier via Luc and Rogleton, Eric Poindron arrives at La Bastide Puylaurent (Lozère) following the GR®70 Stevenson Trail.

Belles étoiles de Eric Poindron

Eric Poindron in La Bastide-Puylaurent on the GR®70

Philippe plays the piano at Gîte L'Etoile in La Bastide-Puylaurent Are you eating with us? The trout were caught this afternoon and the soup is homemade. I'm also offering an aperitif... It is the owner of L'Etoile Maison d'hôtes in La Bastide-Puylaurent - one thousand twenty-four meters -, a friendly giant of about thirty-five years old who invites us before showing us the room. Two beds, a washbasin and an old bistro table with a wooden top for the evening's writing. View of the Allier. The donkey has made its own. She will sleep in a barn, at the foot of the river, near an old bridge. She seems to appreciate the place. Even the ducks here look like they're on vacation.

L'Etoile Rooms and guest table in La Bastide-Puylaurent in Lozère Did you come from far away?

We followed the river as closely as possible after Saint-Flour-de-Mercoire. We avoided Fouzillic and Fouzillac because of the weather, and Cheylard-l'Evêque because we wanted to arrive before nightfall. It was almost straight ahead from Luc. We wanted to go up to the trappe of the Notre Dame des Neiges abbey, but it was too difficult with the donkey. We don't regret it though. Our host says we made the right choice. It's high and still far away, even in the clear night. We would have gotten lost. You have to know the area. It's wild up there. And the hostelry is only open to retreatants.

Belgian beer for everyone! We were sitting in front of the fire in the large room, which serves as both a dining room and a lounge, when two new hikers arrived. They were Raoul, from Saint-Étienne, and Graeme, from Bristol, England. Finally, Billy, the gîte's fire labrador, arrived. There's no need for long introductions outside of cities. We don't show our colors or raise any flags. Backpacks are enough to create a sense of camaraderie.

The owner returned with his arms loaded with dried fruits. Tongues were loosened. After a long walk, a guy who has dinner with you becomes your friend. Of course, we talked about our hikes. The only one who really explained himself was the owner of the gîte: My name is Philippe Papadimitriou. I'm half Belgian, half Greek, and the rest of the time I'm a Lozérien. Before settling in La Bastide-Puylaurent, in Lozère, he traveled to Australia, searched for gold in California, and crossed France on horseback. That's how he discovered Lozère and fell in love with the place. He had two horses, his girlfriend had a horse, and they had two dogs. He settled down and started the gîte six months later.

Eric Poindron at L'Etoile Guest house in La Bastide-Puylaurent I love it here. It feels like I'm on a boat. I've been working hard since I arrived. Life is precious.

He then tells the story of his house, which was once a family boarding house called the Hôtel Ranc. Monsieur would bring his wife and children here to get some fresh air, and then he would hurry back to meet his mistress on the Riviera. Philippe tries to keep the boarding house atmosphere, even for one-night guests. He says, "When you leave my house, you should only have one desire: to come back as soon as possible."
He spares no expense to increase his loyal clientele: the food is impeccable, the rooms are spacious, and the atmosphere is unique. He also has a dry sense of humor and a great capacity for happiness. Philippe has the sacred fire. He refuses to give up, even if this country is not his, precisely because this country is not his. He complains about the workforce who want to move to Le Puy-en-Velay, Saint-Étienne, or the South. What more will they do in Montpellier? But he doesn't blame anyone. He knows that after twenty-five years in Lozère, people can start to want to go elsewhere and escape for good. He likes it here.

The table d'hôtes and homemade soup The soup smells like the garden, the trout is firm, and the homemade pancakes are all-you-can-eat. The delicious little wine of Notre-Dame-des-Neiges accompanies the meal. Fruit wine and communion wine, everything goes down the same pipe. If Stevenson had known the L'Etoile guesthouse, he would have definitely stayed here. At the table, everyone shares their anecdotes and impressions of the places they've been. Raoul from Saint-Étienne tells his stories of his adventures in Corsica this summer. Graeme, the slender Englishman and specialist in German Romanticism and Sturm und Drang, downplays Stevenson's importance in England. He seems almost regretful. Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes is a children's book for us, a dictation book. A charming text to learn spelling. He then shows off his textbook, a small red, illustrated, and well-worn book that he carries with him on his walks. When I told my friends about my trip, they were surprised. In England, Stevenson is a storyteller, a popular writer...

Graeme, who taught French for several years in the Languedoc, discovered Travels with a Donkey in France. He doesn't regret the walk and wants to finish it quickly because for him, Saint-Jean-du-Gard is the end of his vacation. He has to return to England in a few days. He raises his glass to his French encounters.

Philippe takes the opportunity to bring coffee, pear brandy, and small Belgian cinnamon cakes. He puts down the tray and picks up his guitar. I crossed the world and California, I put my hands in the mud to find gold, I'm a gold digger. He continues his story of a modern cowboy by singing Dylan, Neil Young, Eagles, and his own repertoire, which is nothing to be ashamed of.

Eric Poindron, Philippe Papadimitriou and David Collin A log in the fireplace sets the mood for folk music. Raoul takes the opportunity to check on his blisters. Coffee, beer, and Leonard Cohen. Songs warm you up. After seeing the beautiful stars, we enjoy the beautiful gîte de L'Etoile. When Graeme the Englishman asks the Belgian-Greek if he has read Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes, the other smiles and says, I've read two books in my life. My library is my head. I was on the road at fourteen. I worked on farms, slept in barns, and then went to America. Those are my books.

Monks in the mountains. And I gave thanks to God that I was free to wander, free to hope, free to love.

Seventh day, September 21st. Raoul and Graeme are already on the road, heading for Mont Lozère. They followed the GR®70 and went up to Notre-Dame-des-Neiges the day before. On the way, we get to know each other without feeling obligated, and it is already time to say goodbye.
Before leaving the gîte, Philippe the Greek catches up with us. Hey guys, have you seen my palm tree? It's the only one in Lozère, and it made the headlines in the La Bastide-Puylaurent newspapers. It's a tiny palm tree, but its owner looks at it with the eyes of a child. When a Greek plants a palm tree in Lozère and adds some magic powder, the tree can grow to the size of a mountain. Excerpt from "Belles étoiles" With Stevenson in the Cévennes, Gulliver collection, directed by Michel Le Bris, Flammarion.

Old romantic Hotel, L'Etoile Guest-House is a mountain retreat in the South of France. With a beautiful park along the Allier River, L'Etoile Guesthouse is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent between Lozere, Ardeche and Cevennes. Hiking trails: GR®70 Stevenson trail, GR®700 Regordane way (St Gilles trail), GR®7, GR®72, GR®470 Allier river trail. Hiking loops: Cevenol, Ardechoise, Margeride. The right place to relax.